POUILLY FUME, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE
This young vigneron has been compared to the late, legendary, Pouilly Fume producer Didier Dagueneau. Whilst Didier's legacy has been taken over by his son, Benjamin, Jonathan Pabiot's carving out his own story and is producing outstanding results very quickly.
He is the fifth generation of his family to have grown grapes, but his father and grandfather were mainly members of the co-op. In 2006 after dropping out of winemaking school and serving some time as apprentice at Domaine Leon Barral, Jonathan's father handed him 2.5 hectares (plus an additional rented hectare) and he produced his first wine.
He converted to organic methods, certified in 2010, and a year later his father decided that his son had proven his worth and the two combined their 18 hectares and Jonathan took over the whole family estate. He harvests early (to keep acidity) and also by machine, arguing that effective vineyard management avoids the need for hand harvesting.
What an outstanding Pouilly Fume. Delicious citrus notes but with that crisp austerity that you want from Sancerre - shunning the more fuller whites you are getting from this region....